WHAT ARE THE OLFACTORY PYRAMID AND FAMILIES?

Let’s talk about perfume… We have talked several times about the olfactory pyramid, the olfactory families and the notes of perfume. Technical vocabulary that we will explain in this article.

What does the olfactory pyramid mean?

When the perfumer creates a perfume, he gives it a structure. This is called the olfactory pyramid. It is composed of three different notes divided according to their volatility: the top notes, the middle notes and the bottom notes.

The top notes reveal themselves immediately. They are the most volatile because they only remain for a few minutes. They do not have time to evolve over time and remain true to themselves. But you might ask, why?

Basically, top notes are made up of light molecules that volatilize more quickly than others. They are often made up of citrus, spices and aromatic notes.

The heart notes usually appear a few moments later. They unfold for several hours and constitute the characteristic smell of the perfume. They are less intense and fiery than the top notes, but more persistent and voluptuous. The heart notes last in time. They are often made up of floral and fruity notes.

Finally, the base notes are long in coming and for good reason, they are the least volatile elements of the whole. They are therefore the last to reveal themselves.

Their function is essential because their mission is to fix the perfume to make it last as long as possible. These notes can remain on the skin for several hours and even several days on clothing. They often contain woody, sweet, coppery notes. They are what anchor the perfume in time and in our memories.

The game of 7 families… olfactory families

The families participate in the construction of the soul of the perfume. They allow to classify perfumes according to their characteristics.

Let’s start with the most widespread and popular family: the Floral family. It is said to be the heart of perfumery because the raw materials it represents are among the most worked in the sector. Even today, half of the women’s perfume market is part of this family. Soliflores or floral bouquets, the combinations of perfumes for this olfactory family are infinite.

The family of Aromatics is the most evocative. It has been used for a long time, especially in men’s perfumes. It has a classical connotation because it is composed of aromatic plants that we know and can find in our gardens such as rosemary, thyme, basil, lavender … Often associated with the rituals of the toilet, it promises a fresh and invigorating effect.

In the Hesperidae or Citrus family, we find perfumes with a high concentration of citrus. Sometimes combined with floral or spicy notes, it is a fresh, sparkling and invigorating family that gives a smile to the perfume. The emblematic perfume of this family is the Eau de Cologne.

A must in perfumery, the woody family is the backbone of perfume compositions. It is the structure on which the other notes can be based. Very common in men’s fragrances, the most emblematic materials that characterize it are cedar, vetiver, patchouli and sandalwood.

The Fougères family takes its name from the first perfume of the family: « Fougère Royale » by Houbigant in 1882. It is a typically masculine family that evokes the ritual of shaving.

Created with notes such as lavender, vetiver or tonka bean, it can be present throughout the olfactory pyramid.

The Chypre or New Chypre family is an accord built around notes such as bergamot, rose, jasmine or oakmoss. It is a family that gives birth to fragrances of character.

The Oriental family deploys warm, round and voluptuous notes. Often combined with floral heart notes, they are used for both men’s and women’s perfumes. It is a family that promises sensuality and warmth in perfumes.

Natural or synthetic?

The raw materials that compose the perfumes will be either natural or synthetic.

When they are natural, they are obtained through a process of extraction of a vegetable raw material. Synthetic raw materials are artificially developed. In concrete terms, this means that molecules are assembled to form new ones. Some are invented, others are inspired by nature in order to broaden the perfumer’s palette.

Synthetic raw materials are not opposed to natural raw materials but rather act as revealing agents for them. Contrary to popular belief, a perfume based on synthetic raw materials is not of lesser quality than an entirely natural perfume. Moreover, almost all perfumes contain them.

These materials are then added to a base allowing the final use of the perfume.

But besides, is a perfume necessarily composed of alcohol?

The answer is no, not necessarily. Indeed, the base can take many forms: alcohol, water, lye, wax, cream…

Alcohol is a common base chosen for its rapid diffusion of fragrance and its neutrality.

Nowadays, perfume is present throughout our daily lives: from cosmetics to hygiene products to detergents.

And how does it work at Marine Coton?

At Marine Coton, we have taken the crazy gamble of upsetting the codes of traditional perfumery by offering products entirely dedicated to textiles.

The first Parfum de Textile represents this state of mind and stands out for its originality: Accord Infini is a liquid detergent.

The fragrance belongs to the Fruity Woody family.

The Accord Infini olfactory pyramid is as follows:

On clothes, the fragrance evolves over several stages:

• Just after the clothes are washed: the linen is wet, the top and heart notes develop in the room.
• During the drying process: the clothes will diffuse the fragrance as they dry
• When the clothes are dry: the base notes are revealed on the textile fiber until the moment of wearing the clothes. Its discreet fragrance follows you throughout the day.

To discover it, go here.